Archive for category Articles car

Are You In The Market For a Car Loan?

Car loans are a tempting way to purchase a new car. While they provide for easy access to a car, these loans can get quite expensive if you do not know enough about what you are getting into. Simple research will provide you with information that can save you some real expenses. Even if you are getting a used car loan or a car title loan, you need to understand what you are getting into.

Most of the time, when a buyer enters a car dealership, they already have an understanding of what they are looking for in a car and how much they can spend. But, how much research was given to the loan you may be picking up in the process? Choosing this wisely, is key to getting a good deal on a car. To find information, consider looking at different lenders and different dealerships. You do not have to get the loan through the dealership. You may be able to get one, at a lower cost, through your own bank especially if you have developed a good relationship with them.

Being aware of how much the interest rate is like being away of the gas mileage on that new car. You need to ask questions and be prepared with answers. For instance, you may be looking to purchase a used car and therefore would be looking into a used car loan. The car you choose and want to purchase will cost you 5000 paid over the next 5 years. But, what happens 3 years into the picture? The car isn’t worth the amount you still owe on it because the interest rate was so high or you didn’t make a down payment.

Consider the situation there. You have a loan and a run down car that may or may not have been worth it. Add into this a bad credit used car loan, with even higher interest rates and fees, and you are really hurting.

The car loan you choose should be one that reflects your credit, the car, and your understanding of the loan. Perhaps you can pay an additional amount of money a month, and cut the interest rate down over the course of the loan. Researching your options, good or bad credit, will give you more of an understanding of what’s available. Simply check online (or search online) for lenders that can offer you quotes for the type of loan you are looking for. Undoubtedly, you will find many options. You will have companies competing for your business now. Choose wisely, and based on your research.

Mike Yeager

Publisher
http://www.a1-loans-4u.com/
mjy610@hotmail.com
Written by: Mike Yeager

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Are You Comfortable Driving Your Car?

How much time do you spend driving in an average week? Consider the commute to and from work, the grocery store, trips out of town. Does it hurt your back just thinking about it? When choosing a car, comfort should be one of your top priorities. Another priority for those daily drives, long and short – how the car handles on tight curves or on steep inclines. Maybe your top priority is really just a solid, dependable car that you can trust.

Lincoln Brand town car is all of these things and more. Known for its roominess and classic design, the full and mid-size luxury sedans promise safe consistent rides and a name you can trust. Whether it’s the American dream you are looking for, total comfort for your daily driving, or solid dependability of a company with a long history, you have found all of these in a new Lincoln.

With updated looks for 2005, Lincoln sedans are a popular choice among drivers wanting both luxury and durability. All models have a powerful engine and standard aluminum wheels. And for 2005, cars can be ordered in the new body-colors Light Ice Blue Clearcoat Metallic and Norsea Blue Clearcoat Metallic.

Not only is the Lincoln a looker, but it’s safety ratings are great. Beautiful – and safe. When you choose a Lincoln, you are choosing a car that reflects you and your family both at home in your neighborhood and at work. Give them the best impression possible. Looks and brains with safety a top priority.

In fact, the safety features are quite extensive. Town cars are equipped with dual-stage front airbags, and side-impact airbags. In addition, antilock brakes are standard in all models.

Other standard features on the Lincoln sedans include:

? Power driver seats
? Automatic climate control
? Power adjustable pedals
? Child safety door locks
? Vehicle Anti-Theft
? Traction control
? Trunk Anti-Trap Device
? Power Windows
? Keyless entry

About the Author

Find used and new Lincoln information, reviews and more at http://www.Lincoln.us.com.

Written by: Lincoln Fan

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An Overview on How to install Neon under car lights

Are you a bit confused about how to install Neon under car lights on your vehicle? What about the wiring, do you know colors are important when wiring up neon car lights? Well if not we’ll show you how to install the under car lights onto your vehicle in the fastest and most easiest way.
First of all, before doing *any* electrical work on your vehicle, always disconnect the battery before starting. Do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable. Performing projects on cars, like installing Neon under car lights, involves drilling holes into the body of a vehicle, its very important to first check the locations where you’re going to mount the under car lights, to be certain you won’t pierce or damage any crucial parts such as brake lines, fuel lines and electrical lines, etc. While the vehicle is raised up on a lift or jack determine the best location for the neon tubes. Make sure they are away from all fuel lines, exhaust systems, areas of extreme heat, moving parts, and areas where a lift jack is used to raise the vehicle. The easiest way to mount the under car neon lights is to start the screws in the brackets first,(supplied in the kit) then holding the bracket in place, insert and tighten the screws into the holes. Make sure that the wires coming from the *side* neon tubes are facing the front of the vehicle. It’s best to tighten the screws just enough to hold the bracket in place, then go back after once you almost finished and individually tighten each one until it seats firmly. Next you’ll need to locate a spot to mount the neon light kit transformer. The preferred location will be somewhere near the battery in the engine compartment and you’ll need to drill mounting holes for attaching the transformer. The power wire on the transformer can be connected directly to the Positive side of the car battery or to any 12V power wire under the dashboard. There will also be an “Earth wire” or Negative ground wire for the neon under car lights that will need to be securely screwed to the chassis of the vehicle, or to any “Earth wire” to complete the power circuit. The on-off switch should be mounted in a convenient location on the dash and within your reach. Wiring for the switch can be run through a grommet in the firewall, into the engine compartment where it can be connected to the battery. The switch and fuse, that will be included in your neon under car lights kit, should be connected between the transformer and the power supply. All you need to do now is to plug all the neon tubes into the transformer and complete any additional wiring according to your kit instructions and then you’ll be all set to show em off! Please see our “More-In-depth” and step-by-step picture illustrated instructions on How to install Neon under car lights onto your vehicle.

About the author:

Antonio Gabellone is the Owner/Author of All-Neon-Car-Lights.com – The Site is a great resource aimed at Neon Car Lights from PlasmaGlow with “life-time Warranties”. Copyright© All-Neon-Car-Lights.com 2005-2006 – Permission is granted to reprint this article provided the webmaster supplies a *LIVE* link to the authors website.

Written by: Antonio Gabellone

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An Overview on How to install Neon & LED Interior car lights.

So you’ve got your LED or Neon interior car lights, but you’re now a bit confused as to where all the car interior neon lights and wires go?” Well fear not, we’ll show all the “in’s & out’s” of this type of installation and the easiest way of doing it.
It’s a good idea to disconnect the battery before installing any car light accessories. You can do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable and placing it to one side of the battery where it won’t touch any part of the vehicles body. It’s also wise to have your vehicles service manual handy for information about the specifics of the electrical system on your vehicle. For interior car lights, the best places to mount the LED or neon tubes are under the dash on both sides just above where your feet go, but high enough so as not to kick the tubes or damage them. There are also many other places you can fit them and their location is only limited by your imagination. To operate the lights manually, your going to need a switch located near you, so you’ll need to buy a simple “2way toggle” switch (or use the switch that may have came with your neon/led tube kit) from your nearest custom car accessories store. This switch will be inserted into (in-line with) the main power wire that supplies the kit with 12Volt power. Choose if you want your interior car lights to turn on automatically when the headlights are turned on, or if you want to control the lights separately with a “toggle” switch. If you want the neon or LED tubes to light up automatically when the headlights are turned on, then you will need to find a wire under the dash near the steering column. This wire you are looking for is normally Red or Yellow, and it’s supplying the “headlight control switch” with 12V power – you’re going to have to “tap” into this wire to light-up your neon lights when the headlights are turned on. If you want to be able to control the interior car lights separately from the headlights, (best option) then there’s two ways you can do this… 1) The power wire can be connected directly to the Positive side of the car battery, or… 2) It can be connected to any 12V power wire from under the dashboard.

If you choose to tap into a power wire from behind the dash to power your interior car lights you’ll also need to buy a “Circuit Tester” from your nearest custom car accessory store – they only cost about $10 dollars. To use this tester is simple, it looks like a pen with an earth wire hanging out the top of it and a clamp attached to the end of the wire, and it has a globe inside the middle of the pen, or on its end, which lights up when you have found power somewhere. To complete the interior car lighting circuit – you’ll now just need to attach the earth wire coming out from the from your led or neon tubes to the chassis of the vehicle. You can do this in the same way as described above for the earth wire on the tester – anywhere where there is bare steel under the dash is always a good earth connection for your interior car lights, even if you find a screw under the dash that is screwed into bare steel and it is holding another wire in place as an earth, you can use this too as an earth location. The control panel earth wire will need to be securely screwed to the chassis of the vehicle or to any “Earth wire” to complete the power circuit. After your “power” & “earth” connections are complete, your car interior neon lights should now work. If they appear dull and not real bright, then be sure to check that you have made GOOD earth and POWER connections. That’s it, you’re all done – now all you have to do is put any plastic panels back into place that you may have removed, pack your tools up, and then head off to show your friends what a great look you’ve just created on your car – Enjoy! Please see our “More-In-depth” and step-by-step picture illustrated instructions on How to install LED or Neon interior car lights onto your vehicle.

About the author:

Antonio Gabellone is the Owner/Author of All-Neon-Car-Lights.com – The Site is a great resource aimed at Neon Car Lights from PlasmaGlow with “life-time Warranties”. Copyright© All-Neon-Car-Lights.com 2005-2006 – Permission is granted to reprint this article provided the webmaster supplies a *LIVE* link to the authors website.

Written by: Antonio Gabellone

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An Overview on how to install LED under car lights.

Are you having trouble installing LED under car lights onto your vehicle? Or maybe your just not sure where all the wires for the under car lights go? Let us show you all the “in’s & out’s” of this type of installation – which i should mention, is designed with the “Novice” in mind.
The first thing you’ll need to do when installing LED under car lights, is to find where you want to mount the led tubes. Be sure to keep their location in mind while doing the wiring part of the installation, so you can allow for the correct lengths of the wires. It is ideal to mount the led tubes so as they are centered between the overall length of the vehicle for optimal appearance. Tubes should be positioned on the chassis of the vehicle so as they are not visible. Visible led car lights are prohibited by law in most cities. You’ll now need to disconnect the battery before starting on the installation and the drilling of holes. Do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable. This led under car lights installation involves disconnecting the battery first and foremost for safety reasons, and so you don’t “short-out” your car wiring. The easiest way to mount the LED tubes is to start the screws in the brackets first,(supplied in kit) then holding the bracket in place, insert and tighten the screws into the holes. Make sure that the wires coming from the *Side* tubes are facing the front of the vehicle. It’s best to tighten the screws just enough to hold the bracket in place, then go back after once you almost finished and individually tighten each one until it seats firmly. You should have a distribution block in your under car lights kit, find a good location for the block on a flat surface in the engine compartment away from any heat or moving parts. Next you will need to determine a location inside your vehicle to mount the digital control panel. You want it to be in a location where you can easily access all its buttons and functions while your sitting in the vehicle. The LED under car lights distribution block and the control panel can be hooked together using the ribbon wire that comes with your particular kit. The wire needs to be pushed through a hole in the firewall and plugged into the “input” on the side of distribution block. For those of you who may be a bit confused as to what the firewall is, it’s the wall that divides the engine compartment and the interior of the vehicle. Be careful when you do this because the wire adaptors are fragile. The power wire on the digital control panel can be connected directly to the Positive side of the car battery or to any 12V power wire under the dashboard. There will also be an “Earth wire” or Negative ground wire coming out from the control panel that will need to be securely screwed to the chassis of the vehicle or to any “Earth wire” to complete the power circuit. Finally, to be able to operate your LED under car lights, the included switch and fuse should be connected between the control panel and the power supply. All you need to do now is to plug all the LED tubes into the Distribution block, complete any additional wiring according to your kit instructions and then you’ll be all set to show em off! Please see our “More-In-depth” and step-by-step picture illustrated instructions on How to install LED under car lights onto your vehicle.

About the author:

Antonio Gabellone is the Owner/Author of All-Neon-Car-Lights.com – The Site is a great resource aimed at Neon Car Lights from PlasmaGlow with “life-time Warranties”. Copyright© All-Neon-Car-Lights.com 2005-2006 – Permission is granted to reprint this article provided the webmaster supplies a *LIVE* link to the authors website.

Written by: Antonio Gabellone

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An Introduction to Car Transporting

There are several ways to transport your car across the country or across the world. Car transporters are identical to other moving companies: they arrange to pick up your vehicle, load it, and deliver it to your final destination. All auto carriers are required to be registered with the Department of Transportation. You can look up a US DOT number or company name from the Department of Transportation’s website. Make sure you are dealing with a legitimate business.

The most popular and inexpensive domestic option is by car carrier, the same type of trucks used to deliver new cars. Other more specialized choices, for antique and exotic cars, include enclosed rail car service, open flat bed truck, or enclosed trailer. Some more adventurous individuals will prefer to rent a trailer and pull it themselves. Auto transport companies will give you quotes over the phone or you can easily check online for rates and services.

Car transport companies are usually listed under the following titles: car transport, vehicle shipping, and auto transport. Additionally there are a host of international car transport services that offer worldwide vehicle transportation solutions to individuals. These companies specialize in reliable, efficient service with frequent departures from major U.S. ports. You should try to speak with a highly experienced customer service representative to insure the careful transport of your car.

You will need to make a reservation for your car to be picked up. If you prefer your car to travel flat without being tied down by chains then a flat bed truck, rail service or small open trailer are some your best options. You can also request a covered transport; this method will shield your car from inclement weather and other pitfalls of the road. Cost depends on distance, mode of transport and time of delivery, some car transport companies will deliver within several days of your arrival date others within a few weeks.

When contracting with a car transport company you have to consider some issues specific to vehicle transport, unlike your other belongings cars have specific requirements such as additional car insurance and vehicle inspections.

Be certain that the car mover adequately insures your car. When your car is picked up, the driver will do a condition report (bill of lading). Take photographs of the car, date the photos, and attach them to the condition report. When your car is delivered make sure you check for any new scratches or damage to your car before signing. Reporting damages or claims immediately is advisable. Get the estimated pick-up and delivery dates and times from your car mover or auto shipping company first thing. Make sure to get a guaranteed window for the pick-up and delivery and get everything in writing. Just knowing the basic facts about car transport will make finding the right company a quick and easy task.

About the Author

Car Transport Info provides detailed information about car transport services and trailers, as well as advice on locating an cheap, domestic and international car transport company for your standard, classic, or exotic car. Car Transport Info is affiliated with Original Content.

Written by: Thomas Morva

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A muscle car revolution

The Ford Mustang was built to do battle against the Chevrolet Corvette and the Corvair Monza Spider, the Mustang came out in 1964, at first with a straight six, but by 1965 Ford decided that the car actually needed some kind of power.

A straight six could never make the kind power Ford needed, so in 1965 the 225 HP 289 CID V8 was introduced to the Mustang, and this was a brilliant idea for Ford that skyrocketed the Mustang's sales, it was the introduction of the pony car. Basically the idea was to use a smaller mid sized car with a larger engine, thereby producing a much better power to weight ratio, and making the car more exciting to drive.

This would make the car a lot more interesting to the babe boomers, the younger people from the 1960's time era, these were the kids that were in their late teens and early 20's, this would be so appealing to the younger people of that time era, that it would set sales records that it would hold for years to come.

It would sell 500,000 units it's very first year, and this was an unbelievable feat for any car during those times, and had never been done before, and this had thought Ford a lesson, they learned that they could produce cars at this rate.

Ford would keep generating interest in the Mustang by adding grundles of new higher performance models, they created a large stable of these pony cars, during 1965 Ford would release the Mustang GT, yet more power, to make the motorheads go nuts.

The Mustang had already become a desirable commodity. It's standard equipment included, bucket seats. It had the immediately popular long hood , short deck look. At first it came as a sports coupe (two door hardtop), and a sporty looking convert able.

In the fall of 1964 the model the 2+2 was added to the lineup. From the outset, the option list was important in the making of the Mustang. Buyers could add appearance and convenience extras, plus some bolt on high performance hardware. However being based on a compact low priced Falcon, there was some room for improvement in the go fast department.

Combining available mechanical features with new visual pieces made the GT package a fairly thorough upgrade. First the buyer had to order an optional V-8 engine, which at the time included the 225 HP Challenger Special 289 at $157, or the high performance 271 HP 289 CID engine for $430.

The Mustang never did come up against the likes of an L88 Corvette or a ZL1 Camaro or Corvette, it would lose horribly, as the ZL1 Camaro was running in the 10's for the 1/4 mile with a 0-60 of 3.8 seconds, and the ZL1 Vette was even faster, and the L88 wasn't far behind these cars at all.

Now I know what you Mustang and Ford nuts are going to say, what about the GT350, what about the GT500, what about the Boss 429 mustang, and most of all what about the Cobra, well even the almighty Cobra never beat the ZL1 Corvette down, this is always what you Ford nuts fall back on.

The 289 and 302 Mustangs never beat down the 302 DZ Camaro's, and moreover I have driven them all, except the Cobra and I know the truth,

It;s true I am a Chevy lover, but I have owned or at least driven most of the Ford and Chevy model that were ever really considered to be the mean one's and I speak for knowledge, and not just as a Chevy or Ford lover.

And never did the Mustang or the Cobra even come close to doing battle with the L88 Corvette or the ZL1 Corvette, and still to this day hasn't done it.

In 1966 Chevrolet would begin to make plans to release it's secret weapon against the Mustang, this secret weapon would be called the Camaro, this car without a doubt would live up to Chevrolet's expectations of what it could do.

Just like the Mustang, the Camaro came from the factory with a modest straight six engine, and was not capable of any really impressive performance, but Chevy would not wait to add the performance to it's secret weapon, up on it's release in 1967, the Camaro would be a heavily optioned cars.

Camaro owners didn't have to wait for the next generation of cars to get what they wanted, the Chevrolet would offer the Camaro in a lot of different versions it's very first year, you could get a Z/28 Camaro which would come from the factory with a 290 HP 302 CID engine, a Muncy M-21 or M-22 Rock crusher transmission, bucket seats, front disc brakes, a heavy duty 12 bolt posi traction rear end, a center consol with a fuel gage, water temp gage, amp gage and oil pressure gage.

You could also order the SS option which came with two different engines, you could order the big block version with the 396 CID 375 HP engine, or you could order the L34 had 325 HP & the L78 had 375 HP. The SS was also available with the L48 V8 350 CID 295 HP package.

You also had the choice of rear end gearing ratios of 2.73:1, 3.07:1, 3.31:1, 3.55:1, 3.73:1, 4.10:1, 4.56:1 and 4.88:1. You could also get and RS version of the Camaro, or and RS/SS version, Chevrolet did go to extents to give the gearhead what they wanted, the RS version only came with a small block 350 CID, and an option for the 327 CID small block.

As you can imagine the RS/SS came with a 350 CID, 327 CID and a big block 396 CID, and had all the RS & SS suspension and steering upgrades.

Even that first year the Camaro was optioned heavily enough to make you lose your mind, and you wallet right behind that, but it was giving the gearhead's what they wanted, a lot of ways to set their cars up, with out buying it and tearing it down to build up the engine and suspension.

The Z/28 was first designed to go scca racing, and in it's first year in dominated the scca racing circuit, it was a tremendous success for Chevrolet and their de singers and high performance teams. By playing with high performance parts like a giant four barrel carburetor, an aluminum intake manifold and L79 Corvette heads, they got this motor to crank out about 350 HP @ 6200 RPM.. However to play it safe the advertised HP was 290@5800 R. P.M. The basic Z/28 package listed for $358.

Camaro lovers had a lot to look forward to for the next couple of years, that first generation of Camaro's was awesome, and that showed in how popular the Camaro got over the years. In 1968 the 4 bolt main block got introduced to the Z/28 it had the rpo code of MO, so you'd know if the rpo number had an MO in it then you more then likely had a 4 bolt main 302 CID 290 HP engine.

In 1968 there were 602 Z/28's built, and although it was a small number, it impressed the muscle car community, the Z/28 would leave a mark on motoring history forever, the Z/28 was crated primarily as a road race car, and it did very well in what it was intended for.

In 1969 the Z/28 would have a standard four bolt main 302 CID engine in it, and have the option of adding a 350 CID and 4 wheel disc brakes.

Now during those first three years, Don Yenko from Yenko Chevrolet, would have the idea to modify a standard Camaro, and add a 450 HP 427 CID engine, this car would be called the sYc or “super Yenko camaro” this car would hit the streets doing 11.30's in the 1/4 mile, and that is mean, to get the car you's order a copo “central office production order” copo 9561.

Now you could also take a step up to the Zl1 Camaro, in which case you'd order the copo 9560, with this option the big difference is the all aluminum 427 CID 450 HP engine, this made the big block weigh about the same as a small block, and of course you see the advantage there “right”.

Both the Yenko and the ZL1 Camaro had a very modest Hp rating, when dynoed they were actually around 650 to 680 HP, these were not your basic Camaro's, these bad boys were only for a real man, a man that could handle having his neck snapped, and his back cracked.

About the author:

I'm a 41 year old man, who eats sleeps and breathes muscle cars, and the restoration of them, I own a restoration shop here in Salt Lake, and I build computers and web sites.

Written by: David C. Atkin


Regards,

Jeyasithar R
(www.CO5.in)

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